After qualifying 13th, Užnik entered the semifinal on Thursday morning wearing bib 11. The 24-year-old got off to a strong start, reaching the top on the first of four boulder problems but unable to secure it. A similar pattern followed on the remaining three boulders: Užnik collected all four zones, earning 39.8 points – and then the long wait began.
Nail-biting moments
“At first I didn’t think it would be enough. But as more climbers finished, the chances kept improving. By the time the last athletes were on the wall, it was nerve-wracking – I could barely watch,” said the 2022 European bouldering champion. A physio session with Matthias Kapl helped him stay distracted, while his brother Timo kept him updated with live scores. When China’s Yufei Pan failed to top the final boulder, it was clear: Užnik had made the final.
“That was such a huge relief. I’m absolutely overjoyed. After the first two World Cups didn’t go as I’d hoped, this means so much – especially here in Innsbruck. It’s really emotional,” he said, tears of joy in his eyes.
In the end, the number of attempts proved decisive. Užnik was one of nine athletes to secure all four zones. Since he, like Belgium’s Hannes Van Duysen, needed just six attempts to do so, he claimed seventh place and a ticket to the final. “It just shows how tight the competition is in bouldering. I’m happy with my performance – I came really close on two of the boulders.”
A final in front of family and a packed house
The military sports athlete had plenty of support from family and friends: “My parents, grandparents, girlfriend, brother, friends – everyone is here. I reached my first World Cup final here in Innsbruck in 2021, but back then no spectators were allowed because of COVID. This time they can all be part of it.”
This is Užnik’s fourth World Cup final overall – so far, a podium finish has eluded him. But he promises: “I’ll give it everything I’ve got. The atmosphere is going to be incredible.”
The men’s bouldering final starts Thursday at 7:20 PM and will be broadcast live on ORF Sport+ and ORF ON. The open-air arena at the Innsbruck climbing center is completely sold out.
FULL RESUT MEN'S BOULDER SEMIFINAL:
1. Sorato Anraku (JPN)
2. Dohyun Lee (KOR)
3. Mejdi Schalck (FRA)
4. Sohta Amagasa (JPN)
5. Toby Roberts (GBR)
6. Maximillian Milne (GBR)
7. Nicolai Uznik (AUT)
7. Hannes Van Duysen (BEL)
_________________
9. Anze Peharc (SLO)
10. Yusuke Sugimoto (JPN)
10. Lukas Mokrolusky (CZE)
12. Paul Jenft (FRA)
13. Dayan Akhtar (GBR)
14. Meichi Narasaki (JPN)
15. Cheung-chi Shoji Chan (HKG)
16. Colin Duffy (USA)
17. Jack Macdougall (GBR)
17. Yufei Pan (CHN)
19. Luca Boldrini (ITA)
20. Michael Piccolruaz (ITA)
20. Guillermo Peinado Franganillo (ESP)
22. Oren Prihed (ISR)
22. Adi Bark (ISR)
24. Kento Yamaguchi (JPN)
